Friday, March 28, 2008

Hearts in Jars






My parents and sister were here for a visit two weeks ago, and I'd saved up a few touristy things to do with them, including the Basilique de Saint Denis. Usually considered the first gothic cathedral, Saint Denis is somewhat outside the actual city limits of Paris, but it's still on the regular metro line (one stop before the end of the line where I get out to go to school). Still an active church, just like most of the large, historic cathedrals in Paris, Saint Denis is official resting place of the French royal family. From an art historical standpoint all of these tombs are incredibly important because they track the development of figure depiction in sculpture from the early middle ages on through the Renaissance. The modern black marble tombs created for Marie Antoinette, Louis XVI, and several others during the latter half of the 20th century look jarringly out of place in the dimly lit crypt. Although, the real attraction is the heart of Louis XVII, visible in its transparent glass jar. 

Tuesday, February 19, 2008

Dead French Men + Women Part 2: Père Lachaise

These are the last photos I had left to post from before my camera got stolen. More in about three weeks!

Nicole! Don't know how that got so washed out.


Benjamin Constant, author of Adolphe


Moliere 


Ingres


Colette


With the great Baron Haussmann


Dantan 


Gericault, yes that is a bronze of The Raft of the Medusa 

Note: Yes, I did visit Jim Morrison's grave, I just don't find it to be as life-changing an experience as some. 

Note number two: this was also only visit number one out of either two or three. Imagine the largest cemetery you can, and double it. That's probably Père Lachaise. 

Sunday, February 17, 2008

And you have a happy Valentine's day!

Well I have returned in one piece from my little foray to Madrid, Espana, however not all of my stuff has. As some of you have heard, I, SAT (stupid american tourist) as I shall henceforth be known, had my purse, containing everything I had with me of any importance, excluding my passport, stolen from a coffee shop. Luckily, since I had my passport I was able to return to the land of croissants, steak frîtes, coffee, and vin--are you noticing a trend here? Sidenote:I was not terribly enamored of the food in Spain, where your bacon comes complete with bones still attached.  I believe if the dead animal on your plate can be identified as anything but breast, leg, rib, steak or thigh, this excludes seafood, then it should probably be avoided. The words eye, snout, tongue, ear, and hoof are definitely to be scorned at all costs. I am very happy to be back safe and sound, with, thanks to insurance, a new camera and ipod to arrive, along with my parents in a few short weeks. 

After several hours of alternate anger and blubbering following this unfortunate incident, we are talking major I want my mommy moments here, I started to, very gradually, accept what had happened. What I was unable to accept however, was the loss of my pride. I felt I had lost my status as a "smart traveler." I am always careful on the metro, keep my key in my pocket when in Paris, make sure my bag is zipped, somehow it never occurred to me that my entire bag could be taken! Inconceivable! As inconceivable as a boat following in the night through eel-infested waters if you will (that's how you know I've lost it, I start making obscure Princess Bride references in my blog postings). So when someone slipped in, and quite easily I would imagine, made off with my bag, I thought someone was playing a joke on me for about thirty seconds. 

I felt as though every person relayed this story to, my friend Natasha would be the other half of this we, while feeling awful for me, secretly felt as though this was completely my fault. And while part of me agrees, I should have paid more attention, my bag should never have left my line of vision, I also feel as though this could happen to anyone. I was not Ricky waving Lucy's fur coat at what I believed to be my friend dressed as a burglar, only to find out the next morning it was not, in fact, Fred Mertz. I did not hold my bag high and and yell "take this! Make my day!" We all have moments where we let our guard down. And while there are plenty of people this would not have happened to, I'm willing to bet there are more to whom it would have. 

I had mostly gotten over this feeling of self hatred until a friend told me as I was of course not mugged, and clearly not pick-pocketed, I was just owned, pwned as he put it (link courtesy Matt Milner, and wikipedia). Most of us are not used to being that careful. In the States we all go into restaurants, cafes, etc, leave our stuff at a table to go order, go to the bathroom, etc, thinking nothing could happen. Especially for those of us that live on college campuses, we rarely worry about our stuff unless a visible computer, ipod or something else electronic is on the line. So that is why I say, all of you: watch out, you never know when the gypsies are coming to get you! 

And to the woman at bank of america who told me to have a great valentines day after she cancelled my stolen bank card, I say this: you with your little southern accent and naivté, you're next. 

Sunday, February 10, 2008

The Serge Gainsbourg cover in the Jacques Brel t-shirt

Okkervil River, La Maroquinerie, Paris, February 8th

The opener was a band called Coming Soon, who all seem to be French, but sing in English. Overall really not great, except for the drummer/ukelele player/vocalist Bear Creek. Who is twelve, but looks about eight. WHO, I have just discovered is in the project Antsy Pants with Kimya Dawson, and they are on the Juno soundtrack. We all said someday we'll see something from that kid, and apparently we already have.


How to explain the phenomenon of Will Sheff? One audience member (Nicole), was noted as saying, "he's at once repulsive and incredibly attractive, it's impossible but true." It seemed as though, as the night went on, the audience became more and more charmed by his performance, so that by the time he took the stage for an encore wearing a Jacques Brel t-shirt, and proceeded to play an acoustic cover of a Serge Gainsbourg song, every person in attendance was ready to go home with him.

Setlist (I have Nicole to thank for this)

Le Centre Pompidou



 


Xavier Veilhan, Le Rhinocéros



Jean Dubuffet's Jardin d'hiver




Hey Russians and other amusing tidbits

60 kids took a trip to Provence. Looked at medieval buildings, sat on a bus, ate, talked about tattoos, made new friends, and discovered coiffures avec trois chats qui sont perdus dans la forêt. 


When we walked up these stairs we came upon a group of women creeping around doing some sort of performance art. 


Une creche tellement bizarre